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Travel Tips for the Perferct Paris Vacation

Before we head off to the airport and say goodbye to Paris, I wanted to share some of the travel tips Missy and I picked up over the past week in case you’ll be visiting this wonderful city sometime soon.

My first bit of advice is to follow someone else’s advice. That would be Rick Steves, whose book about Paris was always at our fingertips. I’m not sure how much time or money Rick saved us this week, but his suggestions were on the mark. If you’re traveling to Paris, you need to get a copy of this book. It’s the best investment you’ll make.

In your pre-trip preparation, I’d strongly encourage you to rent an apartment, especially if you’ll be staying at least a week. We found it to be more affordable and much more enjoyable. It’s not that our place was all that spacious, but it did provide a place to eat breakfast (toaster, microwave and even a dishwasher), spread out for the week and live amongst other Parisians. We used My Apartment in Paris, which offers many options based on your budget and location. I’d personally recommend the Left Bank or Latin Quarter.

Once you’re on the ground, there are several essential things to do. Before you go to any museums or tourist attractions, get yourself a Paris Museum Pass. It was saved us hours of waiting in line and covered nearly ever place we wanted to visit. You can get the pass in two, four or six day increments. We managed to do what we needed in two.

Take day trips to Giverny and Versailles. Neither is close to the city and both require some advance planning, but they were well worth it. If you’re going to Giverny, you should rent a bike when you get off the train. And in Versailles, try to go on a Sunday so you can see the fountains. Don’t rush your visit. There’s plenty to do, and being away from Paris can be refreshing.

Earlier in the week I complained about eating, but after a couple bad experiences on Wednesday, we really enjoyed the French cuisine. Make sure you eat at a genuine French restaurant (no English subtitles on the menu) at least once; our night out with Kate and Alex Pesey was excellent. We found that for lunch, it was much easier to get a ham-and-cheese sandwich or crêpe than spend a lot of time and money at a sit-down restaurant.

And finally, blog about your trip as it’s happening. I’m so glad I kept a daily journal and posted my photos online. As soon as I return to America, my mind will be elsewhere and I’ll be doing other things, leaving no time to reflect on the past week. My blog served as the perfect place to share our experiences in Paris with friends and family.

No Wonder the French Revolted: Photos From Our Last Day

We don’t officially leave Paris until tomorrow, but because we need to be at the airport early, Missy and I won’t have any time to partake in tourist activities. So I’m calling today our last day — and we certainly made the most of it.

All week we’ve been looking forward to visiting the palace that Louis XIV built in Versailles. I went there 11 years ago during my last visit, but today’s experience was far more enjoyable. We took full advantage of the sunny 75-degree weather in Paris and spent the better part of the day at the sprawling palace and grounds. The fountains run each Sunday beginning in April, so the excursion was made even more special.

After visiting Versailles, it’s no wonder the French people revolted against Louis XVI and his wife, Marie Antoinette, and later beheaded both of them. Their lavish retreat in the country is like a playground for adults. Louis XIV had the gall to build a second smaller palace on the grounds when the first became too busy; it later became a frequently destination for Louis XV and Louis XVI when they needed to retreat from reality. Marie Antoinette even built her own peasant village so she could feel more at home.

While the royalty was spending lavishly on this beautiful palace in the quiet countryside, the French people were starving in the streets of Paris. Versailles, while extraordinary, represents the monarchy’s triumph and defeat. It was a wonderful place to visit, but also a telling reminder government largess — a massive pork project if there were such a thing in the 16th and 17th centuries.

After returning from Versailles, we spent the rest of the day relaxing and enjoying a nice dinner in the Latin Quarter. It will certainly be sad to leave tomorrow, but we’re looking forward to returning home.

UPDATE — April 29, 8:46 a.m.: My good friend Alex Pesey, who runs the L’Institut de Formation Politique and Tocqueville Fellowship in France, takes issue with my comments (partly made in jest) about Versailles and the French revolution.

After digesting Alex’s comments, two thoughts came to mind:

1) Versailles is absolutely beautiful, and the artwork and architecture there was by far superior to what we saw elsewhere in Paris. I agree with Alex on that point. While not a perfect comparison, we saw this contrast at the Musee d’Orsay with Alexandre Cabanel’s “The Birth of Venus.” It was seen an unrealistic by the more “enlightened” — or elitist — class, who favored works of art in a far different style.

2) Despite its beauty, I stand by my thoughts that Louis XIV, XV and XVI probably went a little overboard in building a palace of such extravagance. Much in the same way we criticize government largess in America today, I could certainly understand why there was anger in 1789. That being said, I don’t know enough about my French history, so I’ll trust Alex on the facts, and therefore, stand corrected for equating what happened in France with what took place in America.

A Day Trip to Giverny: Photos From Our Fifth Day

The day started early and turned out to be one of the best yet. We jumped on a train headed 50 miles west of Paris to Claude Monet’s gardens at Giverny. The trip took about 90 minutes, including a four-mile bike ride from the train station though the town of Vernon to his house. It was great to get a bike ride in on the vacation, and even better because it served a very useful purpose.

We spent several hours there admiring the beautiful gardens and water lilies. Temperatures were in the topped out in the 70s today, which made for wonderful weather in the French countryside. After an excellent ham-and-cheese sandwich along a dirt road in Giverny, we headed back to town and caught the train to Paris.

Upon arriving back in the big city, we headed to the Opera House. We opted not to go in, but just the outside was well worth the view. Just a few blocks away was the hotel where I stayed during my last visit 11 years ago. I even found the great crêperie where we often ate.

From there it was off to see the best view of the Eiffel Tower in Trocadéro. We snapped several pictures and made our way underneath the tower, past Ecole Militaire, down the famous Rue Cler, and finally to Les Invalides. We ate dinner at a great place called Coffee Parisian recommended by Missy’s co-worker Jen.

The Highs and Lows of Paris: Photos From Our Fourth Day

Today was one of the best days yet. Even though we didn’t accomplish as much in terms of tourist attractions, we took it easy and had a good time.

The day started a little later than normal. After getting home so late from the Eiffel Tower last night, we decided to sleep in a bit. First we made our way to Sacré Coeur in Montmartre. This was one of the areas I remember visiting during my last trip, and it turned out to be enjoyable experience. We climbed more steps on our way there — first up to the church, then to the top of its dome. Afterward we ate crêpes for lunch and toured a few notable spots in Montmartre.

Our second stop took us to the Catacombs. I had wanted to visit during my last trip but never made it underground to see the spooky place with the remains of countless Parisians. It certainly wasn’t my favorite place — too morbid — but it certainly was interesting.

On our way home we walked through the Left Bank to see several attractions, including the Luxembourg Gardens and Saint-Sulpice, the church made famous by Dan Brown in “The Da Vinci Code.” I even snapped a photo of the supposed rose line, even though the church debunks the book with a posted memo nearby.

The best part of the day — and one of the highlights of the trip — came this evening when we met friends Kate and Alex Pesey for dinner. We even had an opportunity to meet their baby beforehand. Our friendship with Kate and Alex dates back a couple of years, so it was a real treat to see them on their turf rather than ours.

Looking Down on Paris: Photos From Our Third Day

The day began with a very American touch. We met our American friend Kate Pesey at a place called Breakfast in America, just about a mile from our apartment. Kate organized a small gathering of Republicans Abroad on short notice, and although we just had one attendee, it was great to meet.

On our way back from breakfast we climbed to the top of the Panthéon for great views of Paris. We hadn’t planned to visit this place, but it turned out to be a nice surprise. We stopped at the Cluny Museum, which wasn’t our favorite but did give us some perspective on early Paris.

After a quick bite to eat, we walked to Notre Dame to check out the archaeological crypt and then climb several hundred stairs for a view of the city from the cathedral’s tower. The best part was the creaky bell tower — supported by wood, not stone. Needless to say, Missy didn’t want to spend much time in there.

We headed a few blocks north to the Pompidou Center, our least favorite museum so far. After a quick tour of the Picasso room, we decided to head back to the Louvre for one last visit before our Museum Pass expired.

Yesterday’s dining experiences were the best so far. We ate dinner at a nice Italian restaurant down the street (with English subtitles on the menu). Unfortunately, by the time we were finished, it had begun to rain, which threated our plans to tour the Eiffel Tower. It was just a quick shower, though, so we rode the Metro for the first time and ended the night with a chilly ride up the 1,063-foot tower for an incredible view.

Stay Tuned for Day Three Photos of Paris

I apparently took so many photos today that I drained the camera battery. I’ll post more about today’s excursions in Paris as soon as I can download them.

The Paris Museum Tour: Photos From Our Second Day

As you’ll see from the photos, our second day in Paris was filled with museums. We bought the valuable Museum Pass for 30€ and visited the Musée du Louvre, Arc de Triomphe, Musée de l’Orangerie, Musée d’Orsay, Conciergerie and Sainte-Chapelle. We had hoped to make it to the Notre Dame crypt and tower, but we ran out of time. After sunset, we took a cruise down the Seine.

Today also offered some important lessons in eating. Given the very little French we know (despite the fact I took it in high school and college), we had wisely stuck to places that offered English translations on the menu. We decided to take some chances today, and both lunch and dinner were interesting experiences as a result.

We ate lunch at the very nice Cafeteria Monte Carlo just off the Champs Elysées (at the suggestion of Rick Steves), and quickly learned our first lesson. What should have been a quick and easy lunch turned out to be expensive and unappetizing. (Note to self: don’t order steak in France unless you want it rare.) For dinner we ate at the Del Arte pizza place in the Latin Quarter. When I asked the waitress if she spoke English, she said “non” and proceeded to ignore us until another woman finally came to take our order. (Note to self: If there’s no English anywhere on the menu, the French probably don’t want you there.)

There are lots of things on tap for tomorrow. Check back for photos from day three.

I Love Paris in the Springtime: Photos From Our First Day

Missy and I are in Paris this week, a city I visited twice in high school and a place we’ve always wanted to go together. Our upcoming fifth wedding anniversary served as a perfect occasion, and what better time of year to visit Paris than springtime. Temperatures are supposed to be in the 60s all week with sunshine.

We arrived this morning, almost 11 years to the day I made my last trip here as a senior in high school. That trip with my longtime friends Dom and Jared will forever be a wonderful memory. In fact, as we emerged from the Metro today in St. Michel, I instantly recognized an area we frequented during that last trip.

I’m hoping to post a few photos each day from our excursions. Today we stuck close to our apartment, visiting Notre Dame and the Latin Quarter and taking a walk to the Louvre.

A Beautiful Wedding on the Beach

Missy and I spent the weekend in Florida at my cousin Betsy and husband Mike’s wedding on Captiva Island. It was a wonderful occasion and a beautiful wedding on the beach. Congratulations to the newlyweds.

Welcome Home From Iraq

I couldn’t be prouder of my brother-in-law. After spending the past six months in Iraq, Missy and I welcomed him home last night during his layover in Baltimore. It was like old times as we celebrated his return, heard about life in Baghdad and looked ahead to his next assignment in Washington, D.C.

Mike and I were roommates at Ithaca, editors at the college newspaper and both living in Washington on 9/11. We’ve been through a lot together, so naturally I worried about him as much as his sister (pictured above) during his time in Iraq.

Last night was a lot of fun. Mike’s wife flew to Baltimore to greet him and our good friend Dan (also and Ithaca alum) swung by to hang out as well. We’re grateful to have him home, and thankful for his honorable service on behalf of our great country.